It is said that of the five most sacred rivers of India – Ganga, Yamuna, Narmada, Godavari and Kaveri, Narmada is the holiest. It is also said that when Ganga herself feels unclean, she takes the form of a black cow and using the darkness of the night as her cover, comes to cleanse herself in the waters of the Narmada.

The Narmada, for most of its course flows through Madhya Pradesh. Owing to its sanctity, there are many temple towns on the river including Maheshwar. This tiny town on the banks of the Narmada is known not for its temples but for its benevolent queen, Ahilyabai Holkar, considered by many as a goddess.

Viewing the Narmada River from the porch of Ahilya Fort, Maheshwar …

A View of Narmada River from Ahilya Fort